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Starting a
Modeling Career
Portfolios & Composite Cards
Marketing with Model Composites
Model Releases & Copyrights
Why Should I Evaluate Assignments?
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Starting a Modeling Career
By James Folkofske, Photography & Fine Art
1. Who can be a model?
Just about anyone can be a model. There are modeling jobs
for almost any body type, and age. There are even jobs for "unattractive"
and "ugly" models!! It just depends on what the client wants. The only
limits are in which type of work a model can get. The absolute truth is that
about 90% of all models will not be famous and many will not end up in
magazines or on Paris runways. Modeling is a VERY VERSATILE career.
2. So, what kinds of modeling jobs are
there?
There are many different niches included in the modeling
profession. The obvious ones are Print, and Runway. Some less obvious, but
much more widely spread, jobs include: Convention (or Trade Show) modeling,
Promotion modeling, Product modeling, Figure modeling, and MANY more. There
are even models just for hands, feet, and various other body parts. The
areas I listed above are very broad definitions, encompassing many other
areas.... i.e.: Swimwear modeling can be included in Print, and Runway. I
think you get the idea. To list all of the many different jobs would be time
consuming, and take way too much space. ;o)
3. Do I have to be tall?
The answer to this question is Yes, and
No. If you want to be "another Cindy Crawford" the answer is almost
definitely YES! Even with breakthrough models like Kate Moss (5'7"), we are
still a long way from making models under 5'8" an acceptable height in the
industry. With luck and some influence from the public, maybe someday this
will change. Don't be dismayed!! There are MANY modeling jobs for models of
all heights. Runway is still an option for the petite model (not very common
though), some shows are designated just for petites. Other jobs include
print (some), conventions, promotions, figure modeling, etc. etc. etc.. You
just might not be famous, that's all, but a lot of tall models never get
famous either! Height is basically broken down into three groups:
Petite: 5'4" and under
Middle range: 5'5" to 5'7"
Tall: 5'8" and up (in some areas 5'9" and up)
The middle range tends to be a
gray zone, some clients will accept you as petite and others as tall. It can
be more of a struggle for the middle range to find a niche. One thing the
under 5'8" models have going for them is in TV and film. There are no
guidelines about height, as a general rule, when it comes to TV and film.
In fact, think about how many actors and actresses are not tall. Remember
with this career, anything is possible!
4. Can I make a living modeling?
To this the answer is a definitive YES! Almost anyone who
is ambitious, persistent, and confident can succeed! Most models don't make
millions, but they can put a roof over their heads and live well. The
process of becoming successful is grueling. You need to be accessible at ALL
times! Make sure you have a pager or a cell phone! If an agent can't reach
you they may not call again. You need to make your face known to your
agents. Visit them and speak to them frequently, don't be another face in a
pile of pictures! Even if you just stop by to drop off more pics or an
updated resume your face will soon be known. When you are starting out it is
wise not to turn down any modeling job (unless it is morally unacceptable to
you), even a pro-bono, or charity job! These are wonderful to add to your
resume, and often you will receive a tax break (benefits). Good Luck!
5. What about getting paid, and taxes???
When you first begin you will trust your agent to
determine your fees. As you become more experienced you will learn how much
you can negotiate. A standard agency fee for you (what the agency gets of
your pay) will be between 15% and 20%. I recommend NOT signing an
"exclusive" contract with any agency, unless there is a $ amount that you
will be paid and maximum and minimum number of work hours denoted in the
contract. You may also want to add in any special requirements you have,
such as expenses and conditions under which you will not work (i.e.:
nudity).
Ok, about being paid. Take this to heart. Do NOT expect to receive payment
immediately. Although some agents are prompt, for the most part You will get
paid when They get paid. What does this mean? Simple, you work, the agent
bills the client, the client pays the agent, the agent pays you (excuse my
use of commas). This can take months!! If you haven't been paid in 30 days,
call the agent and check up on the status of your payment. Some agents have
even included a clause in their contracts allowing you to receive early
payment for an additional fee, usually 5% more! If you are booking a job
outside of an agency then require payment at the time of service.
Ok, Taxes, WHEW!! YOU have to pay them ALL!! Yup, that's right, there is no
employer to pay a percentage. How do you do this you ask? Well, if you make
a few hundred $ with the same agent you will receive a Form 1099. This will
tell you how much to claim as income from that particular agent. Kind of
like a W-2 you get from an employer, except there are no taxes taken out. If
you make any money on your own (without an agent), you must still include it
as income when you do your taxes or risk an audit. You will need a few
things to do your taxes. First you will need a Schedule SE, your local
library probably has this. You may also need a schedule C-EZ, this is so
that you can claim your business expenses. Remember to keep good records and
all receipts, because you can claim things like makeup, haircare products,
gas, and anything else that applies. When you have these things and have
completed them, then you can fill out your regular tax form, i.e.: US 1040.
If you have questions it is good to see an accountant, and well worth the
money! The most important bit of advice I can give about money is to never
pay anyone upfront for interviews. There are a lot of phony model searches
out there. They routinely accept more than half of those who attend in the
hopes of getting money out of a few poor souls. VERY RARELY does anything
good ever come out of this waste of money!! BE FOREWARNED!! The only
legitimate money you should expect to spend is on pictures (they are
necessary) and composites.
6. How do I get started?
Getting started is really very simple. You will need to
have some pictures taken, a composite, and a resume. I recommend finding a
photographer who specializes in model portfolio pictures or fashion. I also
recommend that you shoot at least two to three times before making your
composite. Your pictures will get better in subsequent shoots. You should
put together a book of your best pictures, for interviewing. The pictures
should be at least 8x10. Do not be concerned with quantity as much as
quality. A few great pictures are much better than a lot of crud. Once you
have put together your composite and portfolio you can write a resume. Your
resume doesn't have to be super, but you should have one. Gather up as many
addresses of agencies that you can find, your going to need them. Send 3-5
composites and a resume to each agency and wait. The agency will contact you
if they are interested. Another way to submit is to walk into a local agency
and hand them your composite and resume. I recommend wearing a suit and
bringing your portfolio, just in case.
If an agency decides to interview you, be professional! Wear a suit, carry a
briefcase and your portfolio. The agent will most likely look at your
portfolio, and resume, then ask you to walk. OH BOY!! Don't panic!
Walking..... if you have cable watch Elsa's show, and copy the models!!!
Remember that it's all in the hips! You may also be asked to read a script
if you are interested in acting or auto show modeling. Fortunately, once you
get the interview, you're over half way there! Be prepared to sign a
contract, and remember... NON EXCLUSIVE. Good luck!
7. What is a composite?
A composite is a card with your pictures and stats on it.
Agencies use it to get you work, you use it to get an agent. This is a
definite must have in the business!! Most composites consist of a 5x7 card
with a headshot on the front and 4 pictures on the back. Your name is
usually on the front, stats on the back. Comp cards used to be consistently
B&W, now more models are choosing color. Some composites are even fold out
cards with more pictures. I think this is overkill, an agent (or client)
will see your card in a stack, if he/she likes it he/she will pick it up
turn it over and in those few seconds decide if they like you. If you have
great pics inside the card the agent won't see them anyway... waste of paper
and money! If your 5 best pics are on the card, you're set. The pic. on
front is the most important, it has to be an eye catcher, remember this.
There are different ways of manufacturing composites. The traditional and
most expensive way is by creating a press (like for a newspaper) and
printing out the cards. This is expensive and requires a purchase of around
500 comps. , way too many! Since the composite is made on a press you cannot
revise it later, and it is very expensive! The best way is to have laser
comps made. These are made by scanning your picture into a computer, and
formatting the composite in the computer. The composite is then made on a
laser printer (not a consumer version). There are several advantages to
this: 1. You don't have to buy such a bulk. 2. You can go back and make
additions and changes to your composite for only a small fee. 3. It's much
cheaper!

The example of the comp above is called a photo comp. A
photo comp is different from a laser comp as the models photos are developed
into a negative just like a photo. The quality is very high and you don't
get the ink color problems that come with laser comps. If a big advertising
agency is reviewing models comps for a $250,000 ad campaign then having a
photo comp could make the difference in landing the booking. Also, if you
mail your comps to agencies you will differently want your comp to stand out
on the agency comp wall (see photo above). The comp wall above has over 500
hundred comps and growing. So you really need your comp to stand out. When
agency bookers receive bookings they will pull comps off the wall and mail
them to the client. You want to be in as many booking mailings as possible
so make sure your comp rocks!!. Remember, the comps quality can be great,
but if the photos are bad then the comp will be bad. Get Great Photos!
8. Model's Photos and Photo shoots!
The photo shoot is the most important aspect of
becoming a model!!
If a model does not have great photos then it becomes more difficult to
succeed regardless of his/her ability. Many great models have had bad photo
shoots and never succeeded in becoming models. Most agencies have had many
models that have experienced bad photo shoots from companies that didn't
care about the model succeeding. It's important to realize as a model who
you are shooting with and what your objectives are. Here are some very
important factors to consider.
A) The Photographer's Shooting Style: There are many
different styles of shooting. As a model it's not only important to shoot
with a photographer that shoots models for a living but shoots your style
and is great at it. Don't shoot with photographers that shoot weddings,
pets, buildings, nature, etc.. Most of these photographers don't know how to
shoot models and only want your money.
B) What is a models Shooting Style? Your
style depends on your look and your market. If you are young and tall and
have a high fashion look then you need to shoot high fashion/editorial. If
you are short and older then you need to be shot commercially. If a model
shoots the wrong style for the wrong market then that model will not be
working very much. Important!, ask to see the photographer's book. Every
professional photographer has a portfolio of models he has shot. If a
photographer doesn't have a book you may not want to shoot with him/her.
Once you have found the right photographer then you should talk about how
you need to be shot. Find examples from magazine ads that fit your style and
market and show the photographer what you need.
C) Do I need a Makeup Artist? YES! Most
professional shoots will have a professional makeup artist. Don't do a shoot
without a makeup artist that does makeup for models as a living. I've seen
everything from photographers to agents doing makeup and it seldom has good
results.
D) What should I expect from my shoot?
Most photographers shoot 3 looks, 3 rolls. Your makeup should be redone for
each look. Most shoots are done in color slide film and the photographer
develops the film and gives the slides to the model to keep. This is what
you pay for and the slides are yours to keep. If you didn't pay for your
shoot then you don't have the right to keep the slides. Be aware that even
if you do keep the slides, the photographer still holds the copyright to
them.
E) Should Models have to Pay for Shoots?
Yes and No, Many agencies will pay for shoots but the cost will come out of
the models pay as an expense. But these shoots are only for the models that
the agency feels will do very well. It is a risk for agencies to pay for
models. Some models just want to take pictures because it's free, but when
it's time to travel and work some models change their mind. Their
boyfriends, husbands, girlfriends, etc. don't want them to model, or they
gain weight, have babies, go to school, you name it. If an agency is going
to pay for everything you will most likely have to sign a contract with that
agency stipulating that you will model or pay them back for all their cost.
Only pay for what you need to become a model.
  
F) What do I do after my photo shoot?
The photos above are examples of the photo process. Once you've completed
your shoot you should receive the slides from the photographer or agent. A
professional agency will most likely have a large light table, like the one
above, for reviewing slides. Your agency should also have a few magnifying
lupes for you to use for viewing your slides up close. The photos that you
and your agent select will have a direct result on your image as a model and
your booking ability. There are many factors to consider when selecting your
photos. First, are the basics like head shots, body shots, and a fashionable
looks ect. It is important to select photos that express the fashion model
image that fits your market objective. Make sure that these photos show your
features i.e., body shape, face, ect.. Most clients booking models are
looking for any indications of oversize body parts, scars, tatoos, or any
abnormalities. It is important to show different expressions. Many new
models will have various poses, but are afraid to open up and show emotion
and mood. It is crucial to show that you have personality, as well as good
teeth. Don't select photos with bad lighting or that are out of focus.
Remember quality is important. Each photo selected should look like it could
be in a magazine or catalogue. Sometimes it's best to review your slides
over a few days and get lots of input from other industry professionals.
However, understand that your family and friends opinions are not valid
here. They are not equipped with the proper knowledge of what shots are
bookable. This should help you understand what should be the best for your
final pics.
If you are a new model I suggest that to
talk to a professional agent that can give you advice as to your market
niche as a model. What markets worldwide can you make the most money and
become successful? Also, a good agent will tell you if you need to lose
weight, cut or color your hair as well as help you understand your body. How
should you pose if you have one eye larger than the other or if you have
large hips. Good agents will identify these deficiencies and help you
understand how to compensate for them in your posing.
9. What can I put in my resume?
Good question. You can put many things in it. If you have
acted in a play, taken a dance class, done an amateur fashion show, been on
a cheer or dance team, or done any kind of sport of unusual activity (i.e.
rock climbing), you can put them on your resume! So get a piece of paper and
brainstorm, you probably will have a lot to put on your resume!
10. What Agencies Need From New Models!
So, lets say you are just starting out and
you want to know if you have what it takes to become a model. Most big
agencies require specific photos as well as measurements. The photos
required are called snap shots and they have to be taken in a specific way.
If you notice the example shots below you will see exactly what I mean. You
must take these photos without makeup and be sure to pull your hair back.
Shoot the photos exactly how they are seen below. Do not pose! They are
looking for many different aspect of your body structure so stand straight
with your hands by your sides. Next, take your measurements, Height, Bust,
Waist, Hips. Below is a measurement chart so you can give both national and
international measurements. Write your measurements on the back of your
photos as
 
11. What do I need to do when I go to an Agency open call?
First and most important is be on time!!! It's good to
arrive early in case there is a line. Remember, if there is a line or even
if you are in a casting line for a modeling job always stand tall, look
lean, smile at times, don't smoke or chew gum. Many models are selected by
agents and clients while the models are waiting in line so always look your
best. Wear little make-up because we want to see your skin tone and bone
structure. It's good to pull your hair back or wear it up, this allows us to
see your neck line, ears, and jaw lines. Be clean! Your grooming is
important. Good clean healthy hair, clean white teeth, and a good manicure.
Be sure to shave your legs girls! Wear clothes that are fashionable, form
fitting, and solid bright colors work best. Show off your body but don't
over do it. Now, one of the biggest factors in this process is your
"PERSONALITY". Be positive, up beat, with an exciting attitude but not
fake. Some of the most beautiful models lose jobs because they have bad
attitudes or they are hard to work with. If you are a happy, fun, exciting,
type person it will show in your modeling as well as projecting a great
image for yourself. The last thing is bring photos like the ones seen above.
On the back of each photo write your name, address, and phone number, it's
also good to list your measurements, height, and age. Give your photos to
the casting director and don't expect to get them back. Lastly, leave your
checkbook at home!!!!! If an agency is trying to sell you something don't
buy it at the first casting. If you have to spend money for anything always
take a few days to think about what you are buying. Don't let them get you
all excited about modeling so you'll spend lots of money. Remember to only
pay for what is necessary. If you really have what it takes most agencies
will pay for you or help you in some way.
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