Home  Modeling

Modeling Career


 

Starting a Modeling Career

Portfolios & Composite Cards

Marketing with Model Composites

Model Releases & Copyrights

Why Should I Evaluate Assignments?

 

 

Starting a Modeling Career

By James Folkofske, Photography & Fine Art

1.  Who can be a model?

Just about anyone can be a model. There are modeling jobs for almost any body type, and age. There are even jobs for "unattractive" and "ugly" models!! It just depends on what the client wants. The only limits are in which type of work a model can get. The absolute truth is that about 90% of all models will not be famous and many will not end up in magazines or on Paris runways. Modeling is a VERY VERSATILE career.

2.  So, what kinds of modeling jobs are there?

There are many different niches included in the modeling profession. The obvious ones are Print, and Runway. Some less obvious, but much more widely spread, jobs include: Convention (or Trade Show) modeling, Promotion modeling, Product modeling, Figure modeling, and MANY more. There are even models just for hands, feet, and various other body parts. The areas I listed above are very broad definitions, encompassing many other areas.... i.e.: Swimwear modeling can be included in Print, and Runway. I think you get the idea. To list all of the many different jobs would be time consuming, and take way too much space. ;o)

3.  Do I have to be tall?

The answer to this question is Yes, and No. If you want to be "another Cindy Crawford" the answer is almost definitely YES! Even with breakthrough models like Kate Moss (5'7"), we are still a long way from making models under 5'8" an acceptable height in the industry. With luck and some influence from the public, maybe someday this will change. Don't be dismayed!! There are MANY modeling jobs for models of all heights. Runway is still an option for the petite model (not very common though), some shows are designated just for petites. Other jobs include print (some), conventions, promotions, figure modeling, etc. etc. etc.. You just might not be famous, that's all, but a lot of tall models never get famous either! Height is basically broken down into three groups:

        Petite:                  5'4" and under
        Middle range:    5'5" to 5'7"
        Tall:                     5'8" and up (in some areas 5'9" and up)

The middle range tends to be a gray zone, some clients will accept you as petite and others as tall. It can be more of a struggle for the middle range to find a niche. One thing the under 5'8" models have going for them is in TV and film. There are no guidelines about height, as a general rule, when it comes to TV and film. In fact, think about how many actors and actresses are not tall. Remember with this career, anything is possible!

4.  Can I make a living modeling?

To this the answer is a definitive YES! Almost anyone who is ambitious, persistent, and confident can succeed! Most models don't make millions, but they can put a roof over their heads and live well. The process of becoming successful is grueling. You need to be accessible at ALL times! Make sure you have a pager or a cell phone! If an agent can't reach you they may not call again. You need to make your face known to your agents. Visit them and speak to them frequently, don't be another face in a pile of pictures! Even if you just stop by to drop off more pics or an updated resume your face will soon be known. When you are starting out it is wise not to turn down any modeling job (unless it is morally unacceptable to you), even a pro-bono, or charity job! These are wonderful to add to your resume, and often you will receive a tax break (benefits). Good Luck!

5. What about getting paid, and taxes???

When you first begin you will trust your agent to determine your fees. As you become more experienced you will learn how much you can negotiate. A standard agency fee for you (what the agency gets of your pay) will be between 15% and 20%. I recommend NOT signing an "exclusive" contract with any agency, unless there is a $ amount that you will be paid and maximum and minimum number of work hours denoted in the contract. You may also want to add in any special requirements you have, such as expenses and conditions under which you will not work (i.e.: nudity).
Ok, about being paid. Take this to heart. Do NOT expect to receive payment immediately. Although some agents are prompt, for the most part You will get paid when They get paid. What does this mean? Simple, you work, the agent bills the client, the client pays the agent, the agent pays you (excuse my use of commas). This can take months!! If you haven't been paid in 30 days, call the agent and check up on the status of your payment. Some agents have even included a clause in their contracts allowing you to receive early payment for an additional fee, usually 5% more! If you are booking a job outside of an agency then require payment at the time of service.
Ok, Taxes, WHEW!! YOU have to pay them ALL!! Yup, that's right, there is no employer to pay a percentage. How do you do this you ask? Well, if you make a few hundred $ with the same agent you will receive a Form 1099. This will tell you how much to claim as income from that particular agent. Kind of like a W-2 you get from an employer, except there are no taxes taken out. If you make any money on your own (without an agent), you must still include it as income when you do your taxes or risk an audit. You will need a few things to do your taxes. First you will need a Schedule SE, your local library probably has this. You may also need a schedule C-EZ, this is so that you can claim your business expenses. Remember to keep good records and all receipts, because you can claim things like makeup, haircare products, gas, and anything else that applies. When you have these things and have completed them, then you can fill out your regular tax form, i.e.: US 1040. If you have questions it is good to see an accountant, and well worth the money! The most important bit of advice I can give about money is to never pay anyone upfront for interviews. There are a lot of phony model searches out there. They routinely accept more than half of those who attend in the hopes of getting money out of a few poor souls. VERY RARELY does anything good ever come out of this waste of money!! BE FOREWARNED!! The only legitimate money you should expect to spend is on pictures (they are necessary) and composites.

6. How do I get started?

Getting started is really very simple. You will need to have some pictures taken, a composite, and a resume. I recommend finding a photographer who specializes in model portfolio pictures or fashion. I also recommend that you shoot at least two to three times before making your composite. Your pictures will get better in subsequent shoots. You should put together a book of your best pictures, for interviewing. The pictures should be at least 8x10. Do not be concerned with quantity as much as quality. A few great pictures are much better than a lot of crud. Once you have put together your composite and portfolio you can write a resume. Your resume doesn't have to be super, but you should have one. Gather up as many addresses of agencies that you can find, your going to need them. Send 3-5 composites and a resume to each agency and wait. The agency will contact you if they are interested. Another way to submit is to walk into a local agency and hand them your composite and resume. I recommend wearing a suit and bringing your portfolio, just in case.
If an agency decides to interview you, be professional! Wear a suit, carry a briefcase and your portfolio. The agent will most likely look at your portfolio, and resume, then ask you to walk. OH BOY!! Don't panic! Walking..... if you have cable watch Elsa's show, and copy the models!!! Remember that it's all in the hips! You may also be asked to read a script if you are interested in acting or auto show modeling. Fortunately, once you get the interview, you're over half way there! Be prepared to sign a contract, and remember... NON EXCLUSIVE. Good luck!

7. What is a composite?

A composite is a card with your pictures and stats on it. Agencies use it to get you work, you use it to get an agent. This is a definite must have in the business!! Most composites consist of a 5x7 card with a headshot on the front and 4 pictures on the back. Your name is usually on the front, stats on the back. Comp cards used to be consistently B&W, now more models are choosing color. Some composites are even fold out cards with more pictures. I think this is overkill, an agent (or client) will see your card in a stack, if he/she likes it he/she will pick it up turn it over and in those few seconds decide if they like you. If you have great pics inside the card the agent won't see them anyway... waste of paper and money! If your 5 best pics are on the card, you're set. The pic. on front is the most important, it has to be an eye catcher, remember this. There are different ways of manufacturing composites. The traditional and most expensive way is by creating a press (like for a newspaper) and printing out the cards. This is expensive and requires a purchase of around 500 comps. , way too many! Since the composite is made on a press you cannot revise it later, and it is very expensive!  The best way is to have laser comps made. These are made by scanning your picture into a computer, and formatting the composite in the computer. The composite is then made on a laser printer (not a consumer version). There are several advantages to this: 1. You don't have to buy such a bulk. 2. You can go back and make additions and changes to your composite for only a small fee. 3. It's much cheaper!

           

The example of the comp above is called a photo comp. A photo comp is different from a laser comp as the models photos are developed into a negative just like a photo. The quality is very high and you don't get the ink color problems that come with laser comps. If a big advertising agency is reviewing models comps for a $250,000 ad campaign then having a photo comp could make the difference in landing the booking. Also, if you mail your comps to agencies you will differently want your comp to stand out on the agency comp wall (see photo above). The comp wall above has over 500 hundred comps and growing. So you really need your comp to stand out. When agency bookers receive bookings they will pull comps off the wall and mail them to the client. You want to be in as many booking mailings as possible so make sure your comp rocks!!. Remember, the comps quality can be great, but if the photos are bad then the comp will be bad. Get Great Photos!

8.  Model's Photos and Photo shoots!

The photo shoot is the most important aspect of becoming a model!!
If a model does not have great photos then it becomes more difficult to succeed regardless of his/her ability. Many great models have had bad photo shoots and never succeeded in becoming models. Most agencies have had many models that have experienced bad photo shoots from companies that didn't care about the model succeeding. It's important to realize as a model who you are shooting with and what your objectives are. Here are some very important factors to consider.


A) The Photographer's Shooting Style: There are many different styles of shooting. As a model it's not only important to shoot with a photographer that shoots models for a living but shoots your style and is great at it. Don't shoot with   photographers that shoot weddings, pets, buildings, nature, etc..  Most of these photographers don't know how to shoot models and only want your money.

B) What is a models Shooting Style? Your style depends on your look and your market. If you are young and tall and have a high fashion look then you need to shoot high fashion/editorial. If you are short and older then you need to be shot commercially. If a model shoots the wrong style for the wrong market then that model will not be working very much. Important!, ask to see the photographer's book. Every professional photographer has a portfolio of models he has shot. If a photographer doesn't have a book you may not want to shoot with him/her. Once you have found the right photographer then you should talk about how you need to be shot. Find examples from magazine ads that fit your style and market and show the photographer what you need.

C) Do I need a Makeup Artist? YES! Most professional shoots will have a professional makeup artist. Don't do a shoot without a makeup artist that does makeup for models as a living. I've seen everything from photographers to agents doing makeup and it seldom has good results.

D) What should I expect from my shoot? Most photographers shoot 3 looks, 3 rolls. Your makeup should be redone for each look. Most shoots are done in color slide film and the photographer develops the film and gives the slides to the model to keep. This is what you pay for and the slides are yours to keep. If you didn't pay for your shoot then you don't have the right to keep the slides.  Be aware that even if you do keep the slides, the photographer still holds the copyright to them.

E) Should Models have to Pay for Shoots? Yes and No, Many agencies will pay for shoots but the cost will come out of the models pay as an expense. But these shoots are only for the models that the agency feels will do very well. It is a risk for agencies to pay for models. Some models just want to take pictures because it's free, but when it's time to travel and work some models change their mind. Their boyfriends, husbands, girlfriends, etc. don't want them to model, or they gain weight, have babies, go to school, you name it. If an agency is going to pay for everything you will most likely have to sign a contract with that agency stipulating that you will model or pay them back for all their cost. Only pay for what you need to become a model.

 

F) What do I do after my photo shoot? The photos above are examples of the photo process. Once you've completed your shoot you should receive the slides from the photographer or agent. A professional agency will most likely have a large light table, like the one above, for reviewing slides. Your agency should also have a few magnifying lupes for you to use for viewing your slides up close. The photos that you and your agent select will have a direct result on your image as a model and your booking ability. There are many factors to consider when selecting your photos. First, are the basics like head shots, body shots, and a fashionable looks ect. It is important to select photos that express the fashion model image that fits your market objective. Make sure that these photos show your features i.e., body shape, face, ect.. Most clients booking models are looking for any indications of oversize body parts, scars, tatoos, or any abnormalities. It is important to show different expressions. Many new models will have various poses, but are afraid to open up and show emotion and mood. It is crucial to show that you have personality, as well as good teeth. Don't select photos with bad lighting or that are out of focus. Remember quality is important. Each photo selected should look like it could be in a magazine or catalogue. Sometimes it's best to review your slides over a few days and get lots of input from other industry professionals. However, understand that your family and friends opinions are not valid here. They are not equipped with the proper knowledge of what shots are bookable. This should help you understand what should be the best for your final pics.

 

If you are a new model I suggest that to talk to a professional agent that can give you advice as to your market niche as a model. What markets worldwide can you make the most money and become successful? Also, a good agent will tell you if you need to lose weight, cut or color your hair as well as help you understand your body. How should you pose if you have one eye larger than the other or if you have large hips. Good agents will identify these deficiencies and help you understand how to compensate for them in your posing.

9. What can I put in my resume?

Good question. You can put many things in it. If you have acted in a play, taken a dance class, done an amateur fashion show, been on a cheer or dance team, or done any kind of sport of unusual activity (i.e. rock climbing), you can put them on your resume! So get a piece of paper and brainstorm, you probably will have a lot to put on your resume!

10. What Agencies Need From New Models!

So, lets say you are just starting out and you want to know if you have what it takes to become a model.  Most big agencies require specific photos as well as measurements. The photos required are called snap shots and they have to be taken in a specific way. If you notice the example shots below you will see exactly what I mean. You must take these photos without makeup and be sure to pull your hair back. Shoot the photos exactly how they are seen below. Do not pose! They are looking for many different aspect of your body structure so stand straight with your hands by your sides. Next, take your measurements, Height, Bust, Waist, Hips. Below is a measurement chart so you can give both national and international measurements. Write your measurements on the back of your photos as

 

11. What do I need to do when I go to an Agency open call?

First and most important is be on time!!! It's good to arrive early in case there is a line. Remember, if there is a line or even if you are in a casting line for a modeling job always stand tall, look lean, smile at times, don't smoke or chew gum. Many models are selected by agents and clients while the models are waiting in line so always look your best. Wear little make-up because we want to see your skin tone and bone structure. It's good to pull your hair back or wear it up, this allows us to see your neck line, ears, and jaw lines. Be clean! Your grooming is important. Good clean healthy hair, clean white teeth, and a good manicure. Be sure to shave your legs girls! Wear clothes that are fashionable, form fitting, and solid bright colors work best. Show off your body but don't over do it. Now, one of the biggest factors in this process is your "PERSONALITY". Be positive, up beat, with an exciting attitude but not fake. Some of the most beautiful models lose jobs because they have bad attitudes or they are hard to work with. If you are a happy, fun, exciting, type person it will show in your modeling as well as projecting a great image for yourself. The last thing is bring photos like the ones seen above. On the back of each photo write your name, address, and phone number, it's also good to list your measurements, height, and age. Give your photos to the casting director and don't expect to get them back. Lastly, leave your checkbook at home!!!!! If an agency is trying to sell you something don't buy it at the first casting. If you have to spend money for anything always take a few days to think about what you are buying. Don't let them get you all excited about modeling so you'll spend lots of money. Remember to only pay for what is necessary. If you really have what it takes most agencies will pay for you or help you in some way.


Last modified:  08/27/05

Send mail to mark@captured-moments. net  with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2003

Lee Photography

Eichenstrasse 12, 66851 Bann, Germany

PSC 2, Box 8173, APO, AE  09012

49-(0)6371-611687

www.captured-moments.net

 

 

Send mail to matt_lee90@hotmail.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2004 Mark Lee
Last modified: 03/14/04